Winter is here

At 6:30 this morning, I was reminded how beautiful life can be. I walked out of my apartment hustling to the tram stop like any other Tuesday morning. It was dark and cold, also normal for a winter day in late November. But today, something was different. Yesterday's snow rendered bountiful radiance under the streetlight's orange glow. It was still pure white, untouched by car tracks and footprints. At my tram stop, I turned around and looked at the snow-covered St. Stephan's Church, illuminated by lights, dominating the horizon. There was nothing but silence - I could hear myself breathe. No cars. No trams. No people. For the first time, it was just me. I stood feeling a remarkable sense of peace, watching the Earth glisten, until knocked out of my trance by the arrival of my tram. But not even going to school at such a ridiculous hour could smother this moment of joy.

Last week was my first Thanksgiving away from home. The Fulbright Alumni Association invited the Fulbrighters in the region to an American-style Thanksgiving dinner on Thursday night. Pumpkin curry soup, mashed potatoes, gravy, mixed vegetables, sweet potatoes, stuffing, and, of course, Turkey. And apple pie for dessert. I spoke a lot of German, enjoyed fine wine, and ate more than I should have. It was a nice evening, with good company, but something was missing. All the components were there, but this holiday that celebrates the American spirit was still, well, German.

On Saturday I trekked with a few Mainzer Fulbrighters over the river and through the woods to visit Beth and Lori in Bingen (actually, we stayed in this side of the river, and there aren't any woods, just vineyards, but you get the idea). We brought all of the fixins from home for an true American feast. Green bean casserole, baked apples, corn bread, deviled eggs, cranberries, salad, stuffed mushrooms, Stove Top stuffing (shipped from the good ol' USA), lots and lots of mashed potatoes, gravy, and turkey (that I undercooked, whoops). We piled our plates high and ate until we needed to lay on the floor in order to alleviate discomfort. Lori and Beth gave a tour of Bingen, so we could burn a few calories and enjoy some Glühwein. And then we went back to Beth's apartment for seconds and thirds. But it wasn't the food that made this Thanksgiving right (though it was quite epic, if I must say).

Thanksgiving is about family.  

The Fulbrighters here -- Emily, John, Ashley, Beth, Lori, Sally, and Liz -- have become my family. I can always rely on them for an adventure, a shoulder to cry on, and a good laugh. I know this year is about cultural exchange and seeking all that is new, but now, more than ever, I appreciate home. And these people, my family, make Mainz home. I am so thankful for them.

On Monday, much to my delight, it started to snow. I left school in Ingelheim at 10am, just as the first flakes began to fall. And they kept coming. 5pm rolled around and everything was covered in a blanket of white, and it seemed like the snowfall would never end. My roommate and I went to the Weihnachtsmarkt to enjoy a few mugs of Feuerzangenbowle and preview all of the Christmas goods I would be buying before the end of the season. We stood under the lighted veil of the market, hot mugs in our hands, big white flakes tickling our noses, enjoying the sights, smells and sounds. This Christmas spirit somehow manages to warm my heart, even on the coldest of nights. Absolutely magical. The Germans really know how to celebrate Christmas. I love it.   

Snow. Family. Christmas Spirit. Winter is here in Mainz and it has captured my soul.


lg, Lauren

PS - On a drier night I will take pictures of the Weihnachtsmarkt. But until then, here's this: